This weekend we headed up to Lake Maggiore. Lake Maggiore is north west of Milan, and just west of Lake Como. First of all, the lake is BEAUTIFUL. The water is crystal clear. The shoreline is filled with centuries old estates and palaces. And all around are mountains. It’s stunning. On Saturday we took a tour of Lake Maggiore and its surrounding areas. The tour consists of 3.5 hours on a boat that takes you all over the lake, and stops at the northern part of the lake in a village that is actually in Switzerland. From there you take a slow moving train through the mountains back into Italy, and to Stresa, where we started. In total its about 8 hours. It was a perfect day to be out on the water! There was not a cloud in the sky, the sun was warm, but the air was nice and cool. We ate lunch on the boat, and then took the train through the mountains. It was a great way to see the area; it showed a little bit of everything.
The lake has 3 islands, The Borromean Islands.
{A little history lesson for everyone. The aristocratic Borromeo family dates back to before the 12th century. The family was prominent in the catholic reformation. One for the sons, Carlo Borromeo, became a cardinal of the Roman Catholic Church, archbishop of Milan, and a canonized saint. He is buried in the Duomo de Milan.}
The Borromeo family still owns the Borromean islands. One of the islands is named Isola Bella. It took the name of Carlo III’s wife when in the 17th century the Palazzo Borromeo was built. The palace takes over the small island. The Borromeo family still stays in the upper floors of the palace in August and September. It’s amazing, and lavish. The bed where Napoleon slept in 1797 is on display. Another of the highlights is 200 year old model of what the Palazzo was intended to look like. The Moreno glass chandeliers are AMAZING. Behind the palace is a ten-tiered garden that has white peacocks roaming around. I told Ted I want white peacocks on our patio!
One of the big highlights of this getaway was staying at the Grand Hotel Borromees. I’ll give you a little history of the hotel, because that, in my opinion is a big part of what makes the hotel so special. The hotel saw its first guests in 1863. As the years progressed it became the pinnacle of high society life. From April 11-14, 1935, The Stresa Conference, was held at Palazzo Borromeo, but the participants, the prime ministers of Italy, France, and England, ie Mussolini, all stayed at the Grand Hotel. As the war progressed, it was occupied first by Germany, and then later by the Americans. By 1946 however the hotel was once again up and running. In 1918 Ernest Hemingway spent time at the hotel recovering from war wounds. In 1929 he published A Farewell to Arms, in which Stresa and the hotel are pivotal locations. Hemingway frequented the hotel, and today there is a large suite where room 106, the room he always stayed in, used to be.
This hotel still caters to the high society life. But there is something immensely special about it. While it is a little pretentious, its stuffy with an aire of old world society. The hotel has been modified over the years, it has modern day luxuries, but it never lost the feeling of old high society. Its almost as if you are swept back in time, to the 1930s. The place just oozes charm. You can feel the history, you can feel the stories those walls have seen and the secrets they hold.
One of the luxuries that has been added is a spa. As a present, Ted told me to get a massage. I seriously do not know what I do to deserve these things. Ted said just loving him so much, is what I do, and that it is more than enough. I still feel blessed beyond reason to be loved so much. Not because of the physical “gifts” I get. But because I never thought I would find someone who loved me so much, who wanted to give me the world.
We made reservations for the dining room and then realized Ted probably needed a jacket. We talked to the concierge, who was a jack ass, and said a jacket is requested, and was good and snotty about it. The maitre’di happened to be standing there and overheard the conversation and stated it was not a problem. Later we realized, all Ted had were nice jeans, a collared shirt and dress shoes. Ted went to speak to the maitre’di and he again assured Ted it was fine. Ted told him just to put him behind a tree so no one would notice. The maitre’di laughed, but Ted wasn’t sure if he got the joke. Sometimes humor just doesn’t translate.
We got dressed for dinner, and went down to the lobby. We had a glass of champagne, sat outside and looked at the lake. It was positively wonderful. When we went to the dining room the maitre’di was waiting, looked at Ted and said, “ready for your table in the corner?” He then led us outside and said, “the best table in the house.” And it was. On the outside patio there are two rows of tables. Our table was in the front row, with a clear, unobstructed view of Lake Maggiore. I was so touched by his kindness. As if that wasn’t enough the food was AMAZING! It was such a wonderful evening.
The next morning as we prepared to leave, neither of us wanted to go. Usually we don’t get very attached to hotels. But this one was different. Over our glasses of champagne the night before Ted had said this should be a spot we come back to for an anniversary. I think he’s right. This place really was that special.
From the train
From the boat
at the Palazzo Borromeo, 200 year old model of what the estate was to look like
Napoleons bed
The backdrop to the garden
WHITE PEACOCKS!!!
One of the ten tiers of the garden
Pool towel
Our balcony. The one behind me, is ours too
One of the modern luxuries, a bath tub!! Which is a HUGE deal in Europe
Cheers
Our table
I know it looks like chicken nuggets. Its lamb chop, breaded with truffel cream inside.
Saffron ravioli with duck and vegetable confit
Poached pear with 90% chocolate topping.
The Grand Hotel
